Wednesday, June 08, 2011

Why S.E.X. is dangerous

After a delightful BJ (Barrenjoey) session with JB (John Shaw) I wanted to warn you all about the potential death block on Super Exciting Xylophone (S.E.X.).

A grade 21 wall that soon gives way to an absorbing grade 15 trad line up a pinnacle, the route is a little-climbed BJ gem.

The transition between the 21 crimpy wall bit and the 15 trad bit is eased by a huge horn of rock on a jutting block that provides relief after the overhang.

Leading it I felt secure, then JB on second mentioned how he'd pulled it out six inches while testing it.

In the attached picture you can see the block in question, heavily chalked so that it stands out.

An estimated 70kg it would make a nasty fall on lead nastier.

So, as the final word in a note replete with intended and unintended double entendres, be safe on S.E.X.