IF you’re going to the Sydney Rockclimbing Club's Wolgan Valley Sheep Roast and Reunion on October 25 and 26 you’ll need something to climb. Here’s a Wolgan tick list for bumblies of modest abilities but with buckets of enthusiasm ... just like ROD SMITH .
This tick list is based on numerous visits to the mighty Wolgan. All visits have started in a similar fashion – lofty plans to climb the classic multi-pitch routes on the towering Upper Baldy Cliff.
However, for some reason, whether it’s a hangover, heat/cold/wind or the coward-reflex response from repeated viewings of Upper Baldy’s lofty scariness, the climbing has ended up on the lower heights.
This is not to be denigrated, however, the following grab bag of climbs have yielded immense amounts of fun. All should be read with reference to Wade Stevens’ Wolgan bible Wolgan Valley Selected Climbing Areas.
Coke Ovens Cliff Lower
The Wars of the Roses (16) (P1 only) 22m. An excellent trad outing. Corner crack to slab. Rap off. BYO tat.
Organ Grinder (14) (P1 only) 27m. A stunning line up a big offwidth, but with plenty of gear inside the crack.
Deathbed Confessions (13) 60m. Two-pitches. Gear and bolts. Well protected. Same rap as DTB.
Dan the Bulldog (17) 60m. Two excellent pitches. Some consider the first run out. Bolts and gear.
Grunter (16) 51m. Two excellent pitches of trad corner climbing.
Sap (15) (P1 only) 27m. A trad pleasure. Rap off tree.
Coal Mines Cliff
Absolutely Sweet Marie (14) 53 m. Some whinge about it because it has a jamBing start. It’s a classic.
Monitor Madness (18) 50m. One of the most beautiful arêtes anywhere. Plenty of bolts but it also needs some gear.
Conspiracy (16) 45m. A brilliant line. Do the first pitch only for a 35m fest of well-protected offwidth. It’s like a grown-up’s Cave Climb at Narrow Neck.
Hellzapoppin (17) 45m. Brilliant. One long pitch. Bolts and gear.
Old Baldy Lower
The Pulpit (8) 39m. Old school. Safe enough despite climbs around this grade usually being horror shows.
Secret Swinger (16) (P1 and P2 only) 45m. Pure trad. I’ve done it three times ... BYO rap slings.
Room to Move (16) (P1 only) 45m. Tough start then pure jam crack. Heathens layback it. BYO rap slings.
Zoro’s Toaster (17) 70m. Sport climb.
Zarathustra (15) (P1 only) 40m. Lovely trad corner.
